High-Risk Chargebacks in the Footwear Industry

From sneaker collectors to casual shoppers, more people than ever are buying shoes online. But when expectations fall short, chargebacks often follow. In an industry where fit, comfort, aesthetics, and authenticity are constant concerns, disputes can pile up fast.

According to a 2022 report by Power Reviews, e-commerce now accounts for 74% of footwear purchases. That shift has created a lot of opportunity for footwear brands and retailers, but it also comes with risks. One of the most significant risks is the increasing rate of chargebacks, which can quietly eat into profits and create operational headaches for businesses that aren’t prepared.

The Expensive Reality of Chargebacks

When a chargeback occurs, the merchant doesn’t just lose the sale. The payment and the product are both gone, and on top of that, merchants face chargeback fees that often range from $15 to $50 per dispute. 

There’s also the possibility of being labeled a high-risk merchant. Acquirers and credit card networks monitor chargeback ratios, and exceeding certain thresholds can result in fines and penalties under frameworks like the new Visa Acquirer Monitoring Program (VAMP). In extreme cases, merchant accounts may even be terminated.

And yet, it’s not just about the financial impact. Fighting chargebacks takes time and resources. Merchants need to gather documentation, respond within tight deadlines, and navigate a complex process, pulling focus away from growth and customer service.

Why Footwear Is Especially Vulnerable

All retailers deal with chargebacks to some extent, but footwear stands out as particularly exposed. One reason for this is that customer satisfaction can be more difficult to achieve with footwear than with many other products.

In the Power Reviews survey, 54% of consumers reported having returned an apparel or footwear product in the past 90 days. Among these, 39% said they returned a product due to sizing issues.

A shoe that’s just half an inch too small, too big, or too narrow will often result in dissatisfied customer. When the returns process feels complicated or restrictive, filing a chargeback becomes the path of least resistance for frustrated buyers.

Merchants who sell high-value footwear face even greater challenges. Limited-edition sneakers and designer collaborations can fetch thousands of dollars on the secondary market. That makes them attractive targets for fraudsters using stolen credit cards. According to an analysis by Riskified, sneaker purchases of over $1000 accounted for nearly 35% of fraud losses. 

Even seemingly legitimate customers sometimes engage in fraud by filing a false chargeback claim, saying they didn’t purchase or never received the product in an effort to keep both the shoes and their money.

Pre-orders and timed releases add more fuel to the fire. Retailers often build hype around exclusive launches, but unforeseen production or shipping delays can turn that excitement into frustration. Some buyers, tired of waiting, resort to filing chargebacks instead of working with the merchant.

Preventing Chargebacks Starts with the Basics

The good news is that while chargebacks can’t be completely eliminated, footwear merchants can take clear, concrete steps to reduce their risk.

It starts with product listings. High-quality images, accurate descriptions, and detailed sizing guides go a long way toward setting proper expectations. Many retailers encourage reviewers to share feedback on whether a shoe runs large, small, or true to size, and prominently display that information on product pages. That transparency helps buyers make more confident decisions, reducing the odds of dissatisfaction.

Returns and refunds are another key area. If returning a product feels like a hassle, customers may skip it entirely and dispute the charge with their bank instead. Offering prepaid return labels, generous return windows, and responsive customer support can prevent that. All this comes at a cost, of course, but a refund is always less expensive than a chargeback. Measures like these can also build customer trust and generate repeat business.

The Role of Technology in Fighting Chargebacks

Footwear retailers also need to be vigilant about fraud prevention. Basic tools like Address Verification Service (AVS) and Card Verification Value (CVV) checks are a solid foundation. More advanced measures, like algorithm-driven risk scoring, can flag suspicious orders before they ship.

Friendly fraud is tougher to stop, but not impossible to manage. Monitoring chargeback data helps identify repeat offenders. Merchants can block these bad actors from making future purchases to avoid further losses.

When chargebacks do happen, fighting them effectively is key. Providing solid evidence and well-crafted responses can reverse illegitimate chargebacks and discourage bad actors from targeting the business again.

Analyzing dispute data can also reveal the root causes behind chargebacks. With that insight, retailers can refine policies, improve product information, and strengthen operational processes.

To support these efforts, many merchants partner with experts who specialize in chargeback management. These partnerships can supply merchants with technology platforms to support internal teams or provide end-to-end chargeback management, using data-driven strategies to maximize revenue recovery. 

Chargeback management companies such as Chargeback Gurus can also consolidate data from multiple processors and card networks, conduct advanced analytics, and give expert guidance to help businesses protect their revenue and improve customer retention. That leaves merchants with more time to focus on what they do best: making sales and delivering products that customers love.

Chargebacks are a growing problem that no merchant can afford to ignore. But with clear product information, solid customer support, smart fraud prevention, and a data-driven approach to chargeback management, footwear retailers can protect their revenue from bad actors while ensuring good customers keep coming back for another pair.