Prada Faces Backlash Over ₹1 Lakh Sandals Resembling Kolhapuri Chappals

Prada is under fire for releasing ₹1 lakh leather sandals that closely resemble India’s traditional Kolhapuri chappals without initially crediting their cultural origin.

Italian luxury fashion house Prada has found itself at the center of a heated debate after unveiling a new line of open-toe, braided leather sandals at Milan Fashion Week that closely resemble India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappals. The controversy erupted when the brand initially described the footwear as “leather sandals,” omitting any mention of their Indian origins, a move that quickly drew accusations of cultural appropriation from artisans, politicians, and social media users in India.

Outcry Over Omission

The backlash was swift and vocal. Critics pointed out the uncanny resemblance to Kolhapuri sandals, a traditional handcrafted product with roots in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka, dating back to the 12th century.  " These sandals are made with the hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur. They should be named after Kolhapur. Don’t take advantage of others’ labour,” said Prabha Satpute, a Kolhapuri artisan, in an interview with BBC Marathi.

Industrialist Harsh Goenka echoed the sentiment, highlighting the stark price disparity: “Prada is selling products looking like Kolhapuri chappals for over ₹1 lakh. Our artisans make the same by hand for ₹400. They lose, while global brands cash in on our culture. Sad!”

Radhika Gupta, CEO of Edelweiss Mutual Fund, added, “₹500 rupee chappal sold for ₹1 lakh, without any credit! This is why I am obsessed with wearing and talking about handlooms. Every child knows who Prada and Gucci are, but very few in a room know a Himroo, Sambalpuri or Narayanpet. Our textile heritage and craftsmanship are for us to preserve, brand, and benefit from. As for Prada...Remember that till the lion learns to write, all stories will always glorify the hunter.”

Prada Responds: Acknowledgement and Dialogue

Facing mounting criticism, Prada stated to the BBC, acknowledging that the sandals are “inspired by traditional Indian footwear.” The company stated it has “always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions” and is “in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture on this topic”.

Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s head of Corporate Social Responsibility, elaborated in a letter to the trade group: “We acknowledge that the sandals... are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage.” He further clarified that the design is “at an early stage” and that Prada is open to a “dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans,” with plans for follow-up meetings to discuss collaboration.

The Kolhapuri Legacy

Kolhapuri chappals are more than just footwear; they are a symbol of India’s rich artisanal heritage. Made from leather and sometimes dyed with natural colors, these sandals are renowned for their durability and suitability to India’s hot climate. In 2019, they were awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Indian government, officially recognizing their origins and authenticity.

Mixed Reactions in India

While many artisans and industry leaders have called for recognition and fair compensation, some in Kolhapur also expressed pride at seeing their craft on the global stage. “Artisans are happy that someone is recognising their work,” said Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More.

Still, the broader sentiment remains one of frustration over the lack of initial acknowledgement and the vast economic gulf between local artisans and luxury brands. The incident has reignited calls for stronger protection and promotion of India’s traditional crafts on the world stage.

A Broader Pattern

This is not the first time global brands have faced accusations of appropriating Indian designs. Recent controversies have included luxury labels mislabeling saris and traditional dupattas, further fueling debates about cultural recognition and respect in the fashion industry.

As the conversation continues, many hope that the Prada episode will mark a turning point, one where global fashion houses not only draw inspiration from traditional crafts but also give due credit and share the benefits with the artisans who keep these legacies alive.