Raf Simons Returns with Archive Sale and Installation at Dover Street Market Ginza

Three years after closing his namesake label in 2022, Raf Simons stages a major comeback through a curated archive sale at Dover Street Market Ginza in Tokyo, Japan. Running from December 29, 2025, to January 18, 2026, the three-week pop-up showcases hand-selected garments, collaborations, and ephemera spanning nearly 30 years of the designer’s groundbreaking work. On opening day, Raf Simons hosted a two-hour signing event from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. at the 7th-floor Rose Bakery, open only to customers buying archive pieces that evening.

Archive Highlights

The installation features iconic garments from key collections like “Riot Riot Riot”, “Kollaps”, “Twin Peaks”, and Fall/Winter 2002 “Virginia Creeper”. Collectors can find rare Sterling Ruby collaborations alongside hard-to-source items such as original lookbooks, David Sims’ “Isolated Heroes” prints, and a box set with VHS tapes of the brand’s first nine runway shows. These pieces trace Raf Simons’ evolution from his 1995 menswear debut to final pre-closure designs, blending youth culture with tailored precision. New items drop weekly, drawing fashion enthusiasts to this cultural event at the avant-garde retailer founded by Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe.

Brand History Recap

Raf Simons, born January 12, 1968, in Neerpelt, Belgium, started in furniture design before launching his label in 1995 under mentor Linda Loppa at the Antwerp Royal Academy. His early shows used video presentations with street-cast models, fusing outsider apparel with business tailoring. After a 2000 hiatus, he partnered with Gysemans Clothing Industry for growth, peaking with collections like Spring/Summer 2002 “Woe Onto Those Who Spit On The Fear Generation”.

Simons led Jil Sander (2005-2012), Christian Dior (2012-2015), and Calvin Klein (2016-2018), departing the latter over creative differences. Since 2020, he has served as Co-Creative Director at Prada with Miuccia Prada. The label ended with SS23 in 2022, as Simons said, “I lack the words to share how proud I am of all that we have achieved.”

Why Now?

This marks the first major public outing for Raf Simons’ brand items since closure, amid high secondary market demand—“Riot Riot Riot” jackets fetch up to $47,000. Simons recently told Highsnobiety, “I decided to stop the brand to have more private time.” The pop-up suggests re-engagement after that break, without hints of relaunch or new collections. Dover Street Market Ginza, a multi-level hub for experimental fashion, amplifies the moment as a “one-of-a-kind opportunity to obtain a fragment of fashion history,” per a brand statement.

Tokyo Fashion Scene Impact

Tokyo remains a global epicenter for avant-garde retail, and Dover Street Market Ginza perfectly suits Raf Simons’ subculture-rooted vision. Fans prepare for crowds, as rare ephemera like invitations and fabric samples rarely surface post-2022. The event revives interest in Simons’ influence on menswear, from Prada runways to his Kvadrat homeware freedom. For collectors, it’s a pilgrimage blending nostalgia with investment potential in timeless pieces.

Raf Simons’ subtle return underscores his enduring pull, proving 27 years of innovation still captivate. Visit during the run for a deep dive into one of fashion’s most enigmatic legacies.

The Raf Simons Effect

The influence of Raf Simons continues to ripple across the industry. From his work at Jil Sander, Dior, and Calvin Klein, to his ongoing partnership at Prada, Simons’ minimalist-meets-rebellious aesthetic remains a cornerstone for both established brands and emerging designers.

For many in Tokyo’s fashion community, this Dover Street Market Ginza installation is a rare opportunity to experience the essence of one of modern fashion’s most influential minds. As younger generations discover his archive, the legacy and emotional resonance of Raf Simons’ work prove as timeless as ever.