Classic Derby Design Gets a Bold Update in True Dolce Gabbana Style

Dolce&Gabbana is taking the classic men’s derby into bolder territory for Fall-Winter 2025, fusing traditional tailoring codes with a worn-in, character-driven finish that feels right in step with the season’s mood. The new lace-up sits comfortably in the brand’s darker, architectural #DGFW25 universe, designed for men who want their polish with a little edge.

Derby in pure DolceGabbana style

In this latest iteration, the house reimagines the familiar low-cut derby “in pure DolceGabbana style,” dialing up drama and texture instead of playing into minimalist restraint. The shoe keeps classic open lacing and a sleek profile, but proportions from toe to sole are amplified so the derby reads as a focal piece rather than background styling.

The design echoes the label’s signature mix of sharp menswear tailoring and theatrical attitude, making the derby an anchor for black suiting, structured coats and wide, puddling trousers seen across the Fall-Winter 2025 lineup. Whether styled with cropped hems that show hardware or longer legs that skim the upper, the shoe is built to add weight and personality at the base of a look.

Washed finish and worn-in attitude

A defining detail is the washed leather treatment, which gives the derby a softened, broken-in surface right out of the box, rather than a pristine, uniform shine. Subtle creasing, tonal variations, and a brushed effect create the impression of a pair that has already logged years of city wear while still being crafted in Italy from 100% calfskin uppers.

This worn look aligns with a wider FW25 movement toward luxury pieces that arrive with patina included, blurring the line between something new and something inherited. It also fits Dolce&Gabbana’s ongoing focus on artisanal processes and tactile finishes, a through line that runs from the Maiolica Nera Collection’s textured fabrics to footwear that privileges character over perfection.

Rugged lug sole meets tailoring

Underfoot, the derby sits on a chunky lug sole that adds thickness, grip, and a distinctly modern slant to a traditionally formal category. The exaggerated base shifts the shoe’s overall proportions, creating a striking contrast when worn with precise tailoring or refined outerwear.

Beyond aesthetics, the lugged construction makes the style more practical for real life—better for wet pavements and winter streets while still reading as a dress shoe from the waist up. It borrows attitude from boots and streetwear but keeps a polished line and flat lace front, which Dolce&Gabbana highlights as core details of its calfskin derby shoes.

Curved toe as signature detail

One of the most recognisable elements is the prominently curved toe, which gives the profile a sculptural, almost cinematic quality on the foot. The toe gently arches upward in a way that catches light as the wearer moves, echoing other recent Dolce & Gabbana ups with a similar “dented” or bowed effect.

This curvature instantly separates the design from standard, straight-toe dress shoes, signalling that this is a statement derby rather than a generic office standby. Paired with the brushed finish and chunky sole, the toe shape rounds out a silhouette that feels tailored yet intentionally offbeat, aligning neatly with the mood of the #DG25 menswear collections.

How it fits into the DGFW25 wardrobe

Within the broader Dolce&Gabbana menswear story for Fall-Winter 2025, the derby acts as a grounding piece for sharp black tailoring, sculptural outerwear, and deeper, more architectural styling. The worn leather and lug sole pull pristine looks closer to reality, injecting a sense of lived-in ease into otherwise immaculate outfits.