How Footwear Is Dominating Modern Culture, And Which Brand Is Leading The Way

Interview by Alyssa Mann, Style Editor, Footwear Magazine

From New Balance’s resurgence to On’s rapid ascent, today’s footwear landscape is evolving faster than ever, shaped by innovation, culture, and the growing crossover between sport and fashion. To unpack it all, Footwear Magazine sat down with Rob Norman, professor at the world renowned Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York and author of Making the Brand. Norman’s background as a creative director spans advertising, sports, and fashion — from working with ABC and Nickelodeon to launching multiple clothing lines of his own.

In this exclusive conversation, he shared the brands redefining performance culture, the power of social media in brand collaborations, and why women’s signature sneakers still face an uphill climb.

1) Which brands are leading the footwear industry right now?

Right now, New Balance and On are shaping the direction of the market in very different ways.
New Balance has evolved from being the “dad shoe” of running culture into a cross-generational lifestyle icon. They’ve managed to merge credibility in performance with genuine fashion relevance, a rare balance for legacy brands.

On the other hand, On represents the future. Their technology, lightweight cushioning, and sleek design philosophy have made them a serious global player. What’s most impressive is how fast they’ve scaled, while still feeling premium and niche.

While New Balance once led the pack, now it’s finding its rhythm again.

2) What do you make of On appointing Burna Boy?

It’s a brilliant cultural move. On’s collaboration with Burna Boy highlights how music, fashion, and sport are now intertwined through social media and entertainment ecosystems.

Artists today rival athletes in reach, and Burna Boy’s global influence brings new audiences into the On universe—particularly across Africa and Europe, where his fan base is massive.
We’ve seen this crossover strategy before, Bad Bunny with Adidas, Rihanna with Puma, but On’s entry into cultural ambassadorship shows that performance brands can also speak the language of lifestyle and identity.

Increasingly, yes—but it depends on the story the brand wants to tell.

If the goal is to sell a performance product, you’ll see campaigns centered on athletic credibility like Anthony Edwards or Giannis. But if the goal is cultural resonance, brands lean into lifestyle heroes like Jordan or Travis Scott.

Social media’s algorithmic reach lets brands micro-target both audiences simultaneously. The athlete’s feed becomes a training hub, while the celebrity’s feed sells aspiration and aesthetic. The smartest brands use both approaches to hit multiple segments without diluting authenticity.

4) Will Asian sneaker brands (like ANTA) challenge Nike’s dominance?

In Asia—yes. In the U.S. and Europe—not yet.

Nike and Adidas have decades of brand equity and emotional resonance in Western markets. But in Asia, homegrown powerhouses like ANTA, Li-Ning, and 361° are gaining serious traction. They’re leveraging national pride, local athletes, and strong government support to fuel growth.

When NBA players like Kyrie Irving sign with these brands, it validates them globally and boosts regional sales exponentially. The impact is clear: Nike isn’t losing dominance, but it’s no longer unchallenged in the East.

5) Where are smaller brands winning on innovation and sustainability?

They win by building sustainability into their business model from day one. Companies like On, Allbirds, and Veja design with circularity, recyclability, and renewable materials in mind instead of an afterthought. They’re nimble, they can test quickly, and they resonate with younger, environmentally-aware consumers who view sustainability as a lifestyle standard, not a bonus.

Legacy players are catching up, but turning a global supply chain toward greener processes takes time. This agility gives smaller brands their edge—and opens a profitable niche that big brands can’t fill overnight.

6) We’ve seen more women’s signature sneakers now than we have in decades, yet what’s holding them back?

The issue isn’t talent—it’s visibility and marketing investment.

Since Cheryl Swoopes’ first Nike shoe, more than a dozen WNBA athletes have had signature releases, yet few have received the same marketing scale as their male counterparts. Even Serena Williams’ limited designs flew under the radar.

Women’s sneakers deserve the same storytelling and production budgets as men’s. Brands need to stop treating them as niche and start treating them as aspirational. Women drive consumer spending ignoring that fact is just bad business.

In addition, color shouldn’t be gendered. When a women’s line launches in all-pink, it sends an unintended message that it’s only for women.

Look at brands like Nike or Way of Wade, when pink is used as an accent or balanced with neutrals, everyone buys it. The problem isn’t pink; it’s presentation.

Inclusive marketing means showing diverse wearers. Men, women, and non-binary athletes—in the same campaigns. Sneakers are cultural symbols, and colorways should reflect style, not stereotypes.

Footwear has always been a mirror of culture but today, it’s moving at the speed of influence. What we’re witnessing isn’t just an evolution in design or technology; it’s a redefinition of identity through performance and storytelling.

From New Balance reclaiming its relevance to On redefining what a “running brand” can look like, the market is no longer divided between sport and style, it now thrives where they intersect. Social media has become the new front row, turning athletes, artists, and everyday creators into brand narrators with global reach.

And yet, as Rob Norman points out, the conversation is far from complete. The future will belong to the brands that move beyond algorithmic hype, the ones that invest in inclusivity, sustainability, and cultural integrity. Because innovation may start in the lab, but true impact happens when a product becomes part of people’s lives.

In the end, the next era of footwear won’t be defined by who runs fastest but by who tells the most authentic story.

Author Profile

Alyssa J. Mann: Alyssa Jade is a international fashion stylist and trend reporter based in Vancouver, Canada. Renowned for her versatile and expansive portfolio, Alyssa has collaborated with a diverse array of professionals, including athletes, political figures, television hosts, and business leaders. Her styling expertise extends across commercial campaigns, fashion editorials, music videos, television productions, fashion shows, and bridal fashion.